On Gold

A note from Catherine on metal — why most of this house is cast in 10k, and why that’s a starting point, not a rule.

I pick the best material for each piece.

Here’s what that means in practice.

I cast most of my work in 10k gold. We’re taught that a higher karat is automatically better, that 18k beats 14k beats 10k. But pure gold is soft, and the higher the karat, the softer the metal. 10k holds more of the alloy that gives gold its strength, so it stands up to everyday wear and keeps a prong or bezel tight for years. For a ring you actually wear, that matters to me more than the number on the stamp.

I also like the color. My 10k works almost like a transitional metal: a white, champagne-like gold that looks as good next to silver as it does next to 18k.

10k is my starting point, not a rule. When a design calls for 18k, white, or rose, that’s what it gets, and if you want yours in a particular karat, I’ll make it that way.

Pearls, for example.

Pearls show why I choose per piece. A pearl strand is delicate, and most of what holds it together is the silk it’s strung on, not the clasp. That makes the clasp a design choice more than a structural one. On simpler pieces worn often, like the bracelets without floating diamonds, I use 10k clasps. On more extravagant pieces that come out less, I’ll sometimes use a vintage clasp instead.

— Catherine